Flying Cap Jewels

Episode 44

Chris has returned from a month of travel. He and Jon discuss the day/date and automatic course he took at the British Horological Institute.

  • BHI Short Courses Chris recently attended another short course at the British Horological Institute
  • Seth Kennedy Antiquarian watchmaker Seth Kennedy
  • Cousins A horological supply house in the UK
  • ETA 6497 Assembly of an ETA 6497 pocket watch caliber
  • ETA 2836-2 One of the watch calibers Chris worked with on this trip to the BHI
  • Seiko 7S26 The other caliber Chris worked with on this trip to the BHI
  • Tissot Powermatic 80 An inexpensive Tissot containing one of ETA’s newer, free-sprung calibers (the C07.111) that is otherwise very similar in construction to the ETA 2836-2
  • Eterna 39 Chris is basing his watches on variants of Eterna’s caliber 39
  • Romain Gauthier Screw heads with a cruel twist
  • Witschi Dry Tester Witschi makes a range of waterproof testing equipement that can evaluate the seal integrity of a watch case without using water
  • Waterproof Tester A basic wet tester for evaluating the water resistance of a watch case
  • Seiko Magic Lever A video overview of how the winding system in a Seiko watch operates
  • TAG Heuer 1887 One of the few “Swiss” watch calibers that employ Seiko’s Magic Lever style winding system, based heavily on Seiko’s 6S37 chronograph caliber
  • Atmos Clock
  • Atmos for the Wrist The patent for the late Steven Phillips’ temperature responsive “Eternal Winding System”
  • Eternal Winding System An archived version of the official webpage for the late Steven Phillips’ “Eternal Winding System”

Chris and Jon continue their discussion of George Daniels’ book Watchmaking. In this episode they discuss work benches.

George Daniels’ workbench
  • Plier Rack Jon uses a towel rack/drawer pull like this to keep pliers & similar tools organized & close at hand
  • Jewellers Work Bench The style of bench Chris referenced, useful for catching filings & swarf while making components

Chris and Jon begin a series discussing George Daniels’ book Watchmaking.

Burn Quite Nicely

Episode 41

Chris and Jon talk about a unique balance wheel, resin-based 3D printers, and wireless earbuds. If you’re in Birmingham, UK on May 11 or 12, 2019 be sure to drop by Makers Central and say hi to Chris.

This episode of Off Hours was made possible in part
thanks to the Santa Fe Symposium

Learn more at www.santafesymposium.org

  • Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer There was a blunder last episode & the Frodsham dial was errantly referred to as enamel when it is ceramic, thankfully we were more on the ball back in Episode 14
  • The Watchnerd Many thanks to The Watchnerd for graciously pointing out our Frodsham gaffe
  • Soldering Iron Bluing Last episode, Jon mentioned he had experimented in the past with bluing steel using a soldering iron, turns out Nicholas Hacko, in Australia, has fabricated an interesting soldering iron accessory for bluing small screws
  • Another Take on Bluing with a Soldering Iron Inspired by Nicholas Hacko’s soldering iron jig, Instagram user, 3hands_studio, from South Korea, developed the concept further with his own soldering iron jig
  • Akrivia Bluing This promotional video for Akrivia shows Rexhep using a bluing tray, akin to the one Clickspring has published a video & plans for

  • Winnerl Chronometer A finely finished timepiece with a unique, cupped balance wheel, crafted by Bernhard Zwinz, based on a marine chronometer by Joseph Thaddeus Winnerl
  • Philippe Dufour
  • Greubel Forsey
  • Stefan Kudoke

  • Makex M-Jewelry The 3D printer that Chris is currently using
  • Peopoly Moai A new, SLA printer with heated chamber that Chris is considering upgrading to
  • Jack Row A pen maker based in the United Kingdom
  • Form 3L Formlabs recently announced the Form 3 & massive new Form 3L

  • Powerbeats Pro New wireless earbuds from Beats built on the same technology as Apple’s Airpods, a little bulkier, but with longer battery life & some degree of passive noise cancellation
  • AirPods The battery life on Chris’ Airpods ain’t what it used to be
  • BeatsX A tethered set of earbuds from Beats also built on the same underlying tech as Apple’s Airpods, with longer battery life & passive noise cancellation
  • Sony WCH500 Nothing to write home about, reliable Bluetooth headphones Jon uses around the house that boast a battery life long enough it’s not something you really have to think about
  • S530 Bluetooth Earbud A Bluetooth earbud so inexpensive & unobtrusively small you can always have one on you & not worry for a second about losing it or putting it through the wash, Jon nearly always has one close at hand to listen to audiobooks & podcasts
  • X1T Bluetooth Earbud Another relatively inexpensive earbud Jon has tried, bulkier than the S530, it’s one upside is its ability to skip forward by double clicking on the earbud
  • Overcast Jon & Chris’ podcast player of choice

  • Makers Central Chris will be exhibiting at Makers Central with Rich Loen on May 11 & 12th 2019
  • Rich Loen

Blued screws, blued indices, blued hands. Steel isn’t the only thing that’s blue in this episode. Chris and Jon chat about tempering steel, Baselworld 2019, and Swiss customs.

This episode of Off Hours was made possible in part
thanks to the Santa Fe Symposium

Learn more at www.santafesymposium.org

  • Frodsham Chronometer Dr. Magnus Bosse goes hands-on with the Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer
  • Aviano A typeface similar to the one used for the indices on Akrivia’s Tourbillon Barrette Miroir
  • Rennie Mackintosh The font Chris is working with for his current dial designs

  • Steel Colour Chart A visualization of the various colours that steel changes to as it is heated

  • Bluing Clock Hands A demonstration of bluing clock hands, from the Clickspring channel on YouTube
  • Elizabeth Tower Home to Big Ben, the first of Elizabeth Tower’s four clock faces has been revealed with a fresh coat of blue paint

  • Baselworld
  • AHCI Official website of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants
  • HANDwerk Collection Stefan Kudoke announced a new collection of watches, with in-house Kaliber 1 movements, at Baselworld this year
  • Habring² Felix Kudoke’s Kaliber 1 is based, in part, on Habring’s A11B movement that debuted in their Felix watches
  • Omega Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Featuring their new caliber 3861, an 861 updated with co-axial escapement, free-sprung balance wheel, & METAS certification
  • Beware: Swiss Customs Michael Stockton recounts the trouble he ran into with Swiss Customs on his way to attend Baselworld 2019
  • E311 Declaration Card
  • ATA Carnet

Chris and Jon discuss some of the interesting dials Chris is using for inspiration in his own watches.

USB C Unicorn

Episode 38

USB C is serving up a mixed bag of terror and delight, Chris is preparing to bring his niello knowledge to the UK, and smartglasses don’t look smart on Jon.

“Less is more.”
– Peter Behrens
(also attributed to Mies van der Rohe)

“Less is a bore.”
– Robert Venturi

“Less, but better.”
– Dieter Rams

Chris and Jon are joined by Rich Loen to discuss Gary Hustwit’s latest design documentary, Rams.

  • [bʁaʊn] How to pronounce “Braun”
  • [nee-kawn] The official pronunciation of “Nikon” in English, as per the company’s 90th anniversary promotional spot
  • A genie whispered “Rolex” Hans Wilsdorf and the legend that birthed the Rolex name

Jon’s got a movie credit, Chris is moving clutter, and Omega’s cluttering up the SIHH signal.

  • Design Canada The documentary Design Canada is now out
  • Off Hours Episode 20 We first talked about Design Canada back in Episode 20
  • Off Hours Episode 21 Correction to some follow-up in Episode 21, at the time we said that Jon had no connection to Design Canada, a bit has changed since then & he now has a credit in the film for some post-production work (full disclosure: neither Jon or Chris are receiving any money or other tangible compensation for sales of Design Canada)
  • The Original Omega In addition to re-releasing Omega caliber 321, Omega announced shortly after SIHH that they will also be re-introducing their namesake, 19 ligne pocket watch caliber this year in limited production, alongside a manually wound Omega De Ville 125th Anniversary Edition
  • Omega Seamaster 300 A fresh take on the Seamaster in black ceramic and titanium
  • ETA 6497
  • Vitsœ 606 A universal shelving system designed by Dieter Rams
  • TIG Welder
  • MIG Welder
  • Tungsten Electrodes Chris is going to need a few of these
  • Julie Lake Instagram feed of artist, welder, & jeweler, Julie Lake
  • MESA Safe A solidly constructed steel safe with a combination lock
  • Digital Safe An entry-level safe with digital lock
  • Analog to Digital Lock Conversion Kit
  • Surely You’re Joking, Mr. Feynman!
  • Cricut Maker A machine Jon finds handy for automating tedious cutting tasks in a variety of flat materials
  • Silhouette Cameo Another vector cutting machine, similar to the Cricut
  • Knew Concepts Saw Chris cut the aperture for the moonphase display on his watch out by hand using his trusty jewellers’ saw
Dial Mock-up
A mock-up of the dial Chris is making for his moonphase watch

SIHH 2019

Episode 35

Chris and Jon discuss a resurrected watch caliber, the watches of SIHH, and a secret way to displace metal.

Chris and Jon look back on 2018 and set course for the year ahead.

No Tree is the Same

Episode 33

Jon‘s brother Josh joins us to discuss his career as a fine wood worker.